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In this super special food tour, Anubhav Sapra takes you on a nostalgic gastronomic journey across the bustling lanes of his hometown Muzaffarpur in Bihar. Apart from being an important trade center of the state, Muzaffarpur is known as the ‘Land Of Shahi Litchi’ as it is a leading producer of this deliciously succulent fruit. Brace yourself for this heartwarming episode that features a huge array of mouthwatering commonplace street food from Muzaffarpur that Anubhav had grown up eating. It was an overwhelming experience for him to reconnect with his favourite vendors and their dishes. Let’s get started.
We began with a nashta platter from Makhan Shah Halwai that consisted of puris, no onion garlic aloo curry, malpua and jalebi. Overall it was simple and hearty especially the freshly made malpuas were pure bliss.
The next destination was one of Anubhav’s childhood favourite stops. Ram Bharan Aloo Kachalu wale was the place that he frequented while returning from school. It was a ritual to relish the ghugni muri and aloo Kachalu from this place. So during this visit we refreshed the memories of these two dishes. Everything from the taste to the arrangement of things on the cart and the passionate warmth of Ram Bharan uncle hasn’t changed a bit. It felt so good to be able to express my gratitude to him for the good times.
After that super nostalgic encounter we relished some several biniya and freshly made lavang lata from Hotel Bahadur. Both these traditional sweet treats tasted fresh and luscious.
The next dish that impresses us was a well assembled Dahi puri from Chintu Dahi puri wale. For all chaat lovers like us it is a perennial source of joy.
We then came across a celebrated pav bhaji wale at Safi Saudi market. Along with the usual assortment of veggies, their version of this iconic street side dish had spinach and a distinct handmade spice mix, both of which lent it a unique flavour.
From there we headed to Hari Ji Kachori Ghugni Stall. It was a delightful place full of yummy fried snacks. Our pick was a plate of Choti Kachori that was a combination of sattu stuffed Kachori and Ghugni. It was so delicious and the flavour of besan fried in mustard oil was a treat for the taste buds.
It is soon time for another round of sweet indulgence at two consecutive places Bharat Jalpan and Maharaj Dugdh Bhandar. At the former place we tried rasmadhuri, balushahi and chena khajoor while at the later one we tried rasgulla, lal mohan and raskadam. In terms of great taste, the second place garners an extra admiration for serving optimally sweet treats in comparison to the first one. Anubhav has lots of yummy memories at Bharat Jalpan which he frequented with his parents while being out shopping or so.
It was soon time to punctuate the gluttony with a paan and some jamun flavoured drink both of which are known to speed up the digestive process and cleanse the palate. We need to make room for a few more popular delicacies.
The next destination was Sundar Maharaj Pede wala. This Rajasthani sweet and snack shop is popular for its pedas and different varieties of namkeen. We tried dalmoth and peda. The soft and rich smoothness and the soothing sweet fragrance of cardamom made the pedas irresistible.
This was followed by a playful helping of aloo tikki ghugni chaat from Ma Bhawani Chaat Bhandar.
Our penultimate destination was a Bindeswar Ji ki dukan at Purani Bazar Chowk. Anubhav who grew up in the lane just next to this pakoda and chup stall was overwhelmed meeting Bindeswar ji. He recounted some heartwarming memories of the fried treats that he binged on from this place. A morsel of the crisp beguni stirred up more memories.
The final destination of this close to heart food tour was Sindhi Sweet Shop. Here we tried the topi khaja which is a delicious multi layered, firm and glazed sweet treat.
Thus comes to and end the walk down the memory lanes that is bustling with tales of tastes and flavours that had satiated Anubhav’s quest for food right from his childhood. Hope you enjoy the recollection.
About the host – Anubhav Sapra
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Design and filmed by Rahul Singh
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Text by Swetaleena Nayak